You've been looking forward to it so much. That beautiful bottle of wine you've been saving for a special moment. The cork pops, you pour, bring the glass to your nose, and there it is: that characteristic musty smell that immediately tells you this bottle is "corked."
A disappointment that can and certainly will happen to even the most experienced wine lover.
What is "cork"?
So, it's not what some people might think: bits of cork floating in your wine. That's not really harmful, but is more likely the result of a brittle stool, or someone perhaps opening a bottle a little too enthusiastically.
Cork, in this context, is tantamount to a tarnished bottle of wine. Tarnished in such a sense that it no longer tastes as intended, and is simply no longer enjoyable. Although the extent to which it affects you can vary considerably from drinker to drinker.
Incidentally, "cork" isn't the only flaw or blemish a wine can have. Oxidation, reduction, and other forms also exist, but this is the most common and perhaps the most obscure.
TCA
The real name of the substance that causes cork taint is 2,4,6-trichloroanisole, or TCA for short. This chemical compound is formed when certain fungi and bacteria come into contact with chlorine compounds.
Interestingly, humans can smell TCA at extremely low concentrations – from 2 to 4 nanograms per liter.
That's equivalent to one drop in an Olympic swimming pool!
How often does "cork" appear?
Did you know that cork taint still occurs in 1 to 6 percent of all wine bottles worldwide*? This means millions of undrinkable bottles of wine are opened every year. It's a problem the wine industry has been trying to solve for years, but it's proving more persistent than expected.
The cork
Of course, the cork is often the culprit. But what determines whether the cork can do anything about it?
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The quality of the cork
The winery naturally has a direct influence on this. Not all cork is created equal. Simply put, good corks are a natural part of good winemaking. Ideally, you'd use a dense cork. These come from trees that grow in higher altitudes. They grow more slowly and therefore produce denser cork. This, of course, comes at a price. And so, a choice must be made.
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The type of cork
Are you using pure natural cork, synthetic cork, pressed cork made from cork particles, or a hybrid? Or an alternative, such as a glass stopper or screw cap? Above, you'll see some common options. From left to right:
- Nomacorc : This is a purely synthetic variant, containing no TCAs. It also has no appeal.
- DIAM : These are cork residues that are treated to remove all possible "cork" contaminants. They look better, but are also quite unsightly.
- Pressed number 1 : This involves pressing all or part of the cork scraps. In the example, the middle 80-90% is pressed, and it is sealed with a layer of pure cork.
- Pressed number 2 (the sparkling wine variant): this is also often blended in batches, but in this case the choice of combination is based on the requirements for flavor development and the pressure that must be withstood over time.
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Pure nature : the cork is taken whole from the bark of a cork oak,
Quercus suber, pounded. The bark is boiled, dried, cleaned, and regrows. So no tree is felled for it. Pure charm, and in my opinion, just as much a part of making a fine wine.
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The condition over time
A cork needs to stay moist, so bottles should preferably be stored lying flat. This is less important for bubbly bottles, as their cork is pressed much more tightly into the bottle. The other side of the cork is also affected by temperature, moisture, and other factors.
If you buy wine to experience its development, make sure you store it properly.
It's not just the cork that's to blame
Despite the name, cork taint isn't just caused by the cork. TCA can also form or worsen in/through:
- Wooden wine barrels
- Cardboard boxes used to transport wine
- The wine cellar at the winery itself
- How to store the wine
- Even in the grapes at the time of harvest
Therefore, it may happen that a single bottle is affected, but also an entire batch.
How do you recognize cork taint?
The first sign is often that characteristic musty smell. Think of:
- Damp cellars
- Old newspapers
- Moldy cardboard
- Wet dog
Here's a tip from someone who's tried their hand at a fair number of corked bottles: When pouring a glass, take a good sniff before swirling. This is when you'll smell any cork most effectively. Swirling can occasionally bring out the fruit and conceal the cork.
If you have a good bottle, which is usually the case, then of course keep rolling, because that is good for your experience.
In your mouth you notice that the wine:
- Tastes flat and lifeless
- No more fruit tasting
- All freshness is missing
The costly impact on the wine world
The economic impact of cork taint is enormous. In Europe alone, it theoretically costs hundreds of millions of euros in lost wine annually. Of course, plenty of people don't notice it. Nevertheless, it has led to a true revolution in the wine industry, with innovations such as:
- High quality screw caps
- Glass stoppers
- Hybrid corks
- Synthetic corks
- Advanced cork screening methods
What to do with cork?
At home
If you bought a corked bottle, you're entitled to a new one. At Perfectewijn.nl, we'll happily replace any corked bottle. Because we believe wine should, above all, bring enjoyment. Of course, there's a limit to how old a bottle can be. After all, storage at home is also important.
In a restaurant
In a restaurant, you can always refuse a corked wine. This usually involves a first tasting sip. It's not meant to determine whether you like it or not; open it, pay. A good sommelier will immediately acknowledge this and offer you a new bottle. Unsure? Feel free to ask for a second opinion.
The future of wine and cork
The fight against cork has led to interesting developments in the wine world. Some prestigious wineries are now consciously choosing alternatives, while others are sticking to tradition but investing in better quality control and better corks.
Cork taint remains a fascinating phenomenon in the wine world. It demonstrates how complex and fragile wine can be. But the most important thing is that you, as a consumer, know your rights. Because one thing is certain: no one should have to pay for an undrinkable bottle of wine.
Frequently Asked Questions
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Can I prevent cork taint by storing the wine differently?
No, if TCA is in the bottle, there's nothing you can do about it. Proper storage won't prevent cork taint, but it will help prevent it from worsening.
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Is cork taint dangerous to your health?
No, TCA is generally not harmful to health. It simply makes the wine unpleasant to drink.
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Does cork taint only occur in expensive wines?
No, cork taint can occur in all wines (that are sealed with a natural cork), regardless of price.
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Can I still use an opened bottle with a corked flavor for cooking? No, the TCA flavor remains and can taint your dish.
- Why do winemakers still use cork when there are alternatives? Tradition, marketing, and the belief that cork is the best seal for long aging play a role.
* Source: North West Wine Report, https://www.northwestwinereport.com/2023/02/how-big-of-issue-is-cork-taint-really.html & Coravin, https://www.coravin.nl/blogs/coravin-community/corked-wine-explained-what-it-is-how-to-detect-it-and-ways-to-prevent-it
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