Piedmont is a region that produces many top wines. It's also a region with a strong focus on what terroir can offer, and how grape variety hierarchy can influence winemaking.
But let's first start with a bit of history.
The Barolo Boys: Revolution in the Vineyard
In the late 1980s, Barolo was a different wine than we know it today. Heavy, tannic (and it still is, so imagine where they came from) monsters that sometimes took a decade to mature. That was, until a group of young, ambitious winemakers decided it was time for a change.
These rebels, later dubbed the "Barolo Boys," introduced techniques considered sacrilege in Piedmont: shorter maceration , French barriques instead of large Slavonian barrels, and a more modern approach to winemaking. Names like Elio Altare, Chiara Boschis, and Luciano Sandrone were at the forefront of this revolution.
The result? Barolos that were drinkable younger, with more accessible fruit and softer tannins. Traditionalists were furious. Heated debates ensued in village pubs, families no longer speaking to each other, and a wine region divided into two camps.
Image: Vignarionda, one of the most coveted vineyards for Barolo.
Today, that controversy has subsided, but there are certainly still conflicting views. One way or another, however, it has brought about change and awareness. Many winemakers embrace the best of both worlds: the elegance of tradition combined with the precision of modern techniques. The Barolo Boys, consciously or unconsciously, have shaken up that entire region and ensured that Piedmont remained relevant in a changing wine world.
What is Piedmont today?
Piedmont has two major wine centers, and despite being just a stone's throw from each other, there are significant differences. I'm talking about Alba and Asti.
Alba Alba is the "capital" of Nebbiolo. Here, everything revolves around Barolo and Barbaresco , truffles, top restaurants, and international recognition. It's the Piedmont of glossy wine magazines and astronomical prices. Driving through the hills around Alba, you'll see polished wineries and perfectly maintained vineyards. This is where Piedmont's great reputation is made and certainly deserved.
Asti On the other hand, Asti has a completely different story. This region is known for its Moscato, the sweet, sparkling wine that conquered the world as 'Asti Spumante' (or simply 'Moscato d'Asti' these days). They also make seriously good red wine, but that's always Barbera . A grape you certainly see in Alba as well, but there it's mainly grown on the shady slopes of the hills. While Alba is serious and prestigious, Asti is perhaps more accessible. The hills are gentler, the atmosphere more relaxed, the prices more affordable.
Don't underestimate Asti. Here you'll find serious Barbera wines, and the region has its own pride and traditions. The difference between the two areas perfectly symbolizes Piedmont's diversity: from festive bubbles to the most serious red wines in the world, all within a single region.
Then there is the Langhe and Roero, but without going into too much detail about that, let's call it the larger areas that surround them.
So back to a bit of history:
Angelo Gaja: The Man Who Rewrote the Rules
If there's one name that put Piedmont on the world map, it's Angelo Gaja. This winemaker from Barbaresco is a legend, a visionary, and for some, a controversial figure. For me, his wines have been a huge influence, and over time, they've lost just as much of their prestige.
In the 1970s and 1980s, Gaja did things that simply weren't done in Piedmont. He planted international grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay in the sacred Barbaresco region. He used new French oak barrels. He charged prices that made Italian wine lovers salivate, but also afford them.
The result? Wines that were internationally acclaimed and suddenly found themselves on the same lists as the Grands Crus from Bordeaux and Burgundy. Gaja proved that Italian wine could be just as prestigious, refined, and expensive as any top French wine.
But his greatest impact lies even deeper. Gaja inspired an entire generation of winemakers to aim much higher, to not settle for "good enough," to invest in quality, and to see Piedmont as a region that could compete with the best in the world. Without Angelo Gaja, Piedmont would look very different today. Gaja is now active not only in Piedmont, but also in Bolgheri, Brunello, and further south.
Poderi Colla: Silent Revolutionaries
While the Barolo Boys were garnering a lot of attention and Gaja making headlines, there were also producers shaping the region in their own, quieter ways. Poderi Colla is a wonderful example.
This family winery, run by Federica Colla and Pietro Colla, is known for its impeccable quality and deep respect for terroir. They were pioneers in organic vineyard management long before it became mainstream. Their wines are praised for their purity and elegance.
But perhaps even more importantly, they go back so far in history that they contributed to the development of Nebbiolo and its status. You can read more about this shortly.
They also used to own Prunotto , which now belongs to the Antinori stable.
Dolcetto
You just saw it briefly: the development of Nebbiolo. Nebbiolo used to be a kind of inferior byproduct of the region. People didn't want to drink it because it wasn't exactly accessible, difficult, and so on.
What did people drink then: Dolcetto .
Why? Dolcetto is easier to grow, ripens faster, and produces reliable harvests. For the farmers who also drank these wines themselves, this was ideal. It was the everyday wine, the wine to accompany food, the wine you could drink without fuss.
The name literally means "little sweet," which is confusing because the wine is usually dry. It refers to the sweetness of the grape itself. Dolcetto produces wines with dark fruit, soft tannins, and instant drinkability. No years of aging required; simply open and enjoy.
Today, Dolcetto is the entry-level wine for many Piedmontese houses. It's the wine they make for every day. A pizza wine. Not to say there's anything wrong with it, but Dolcetto is often more fruit-focused, accessible, quick to drink, and very attractively priced .
Winemakers themselves prefer to focus on Nebbiolo or Barbera, as they bring more money and prestige, but for enthusiasts looking for authentic Piedmont without the price tag, Dolcetto is a fantastic discovery.
Timorasso: The Resurrection of a Forgotten Grape
Another grape variety that has shifted roles considerably. Somewhere in the 1980s, Timorasso was on the verge of disappearing completely. This ancient, indigenous white grape from the Colli Tortonesi was practically extinct—perhaps a handful of old vines remained here and there.
Then came Aldo Massa, a passionate winemaker who believed in the potential of this forgotten grape. He began replanting Timorasso and experimenting with winemaking styles. What he discovered astonished everyone.
Timorasso proved capable of producing wines with enormous complexity and aging potential, something rarely seen in white wines . Think powerful texture, aromas of apricot, spice, and minerals, and an acidity that keeps the wine fresh even after years in the bottle.
Today, Timorasso truly symbolizes Piedmont's ability to reinvent itself. Production remains small, prices have risen, quality has improved from winemakers like Borgogno , and the wine has developed a cult following among wine lovers seeking something unique. From near-extinction to cult wine in just a few decades. Quite an achievement.
As you can see, Piedmont is more than just Nebbiolo and tannins. So much more that I'll tell you more about it in parts 2 and 3 of this article.
...and 4 perhaps.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Is Barolo always powerful?
While Barolo is known for its strength, much depends on the vintage and the producer. Modern styles can be surprisingly elegant. - What is the best age for a Barolo?
Most Barolos need at least 8-10 years to reach their peak, but top wines can easily last 20-30 years. - Why is Nebbiolo so special?
This grape combines power with elegance, producing wines with a unique aroma profile found nowhere else in the world. It's rarely found elsewhere in the world. - Should you buy expensive Piedmont wines?
Not necessarily. Start with a good Barbera or Langhe Nebbiolo to get to know the region. For example, this Nebbiolo from Boroli. - What makes Piedmont unique?
The combination of soil, climate and centuries-old wine-growing tradition makes this region irreplaceable in the wine world.
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